I’m going to show you how I made a heavy looking industrial curtain rod from inexpensive hardware store supplies. I was on a fairly tight budget for my curtains rods for the dining and living area, but I still wanted something that looked solid and substantial for our seven foot windows. There are so many different types of industrial curtain rods, but for mine I spray painted PVC pipe and used plumbing parts for the brackets and finials. They turned out exactly as I was hoping and you can never tell the difference between my plastic curtain rods and real galvanized metal.
You can make these easily yourself, or you can buy the brackets in my Etsy shop!
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Step 1: Cut and spray paint PVC pipe
Using a chop saw cut the 1″ diameter PVC pipe down to length. They come in 10 foot lengths, and I cut mine down to about 9 feet. The diameter is measured as the inside diameter. So for 1″ diameter inside, the outside diameter is closer to 1.5″ which I found was a good size for the grommet curtains I bought.
I lightly sanded the pipe just to scuff up the surface. I wanted the curtains rods to be an antique pewter color to match the hardware and appliances in the kitchen
. So I used a combination of Rust-oleum antique pewter and weathered steel spray paints.
Step 2: Assemble the brackets
The brackets are made up of a 3/8″ ceiling flange, a 3/8 threaded steel bar that I got Tony to cut to a length of 3.5 inches, and a 1″ split ring hanger. I spray painted all the parts the same color as the PVC pipe.
Step 3: Galvanized plumbing cap finial
The curtain rod finial is made from a piece of 1″ diameter wooden dowel and a 1″ galvanized plumbing cap fitting. I cut the dowel to about 4 inches long, then attached it to the cap using some gorilla epoxy resin. After letting the epoxy dry, I spray painted the finials using the antique pewter and weathered steel spray paints.
Step 4: Hang curtain rod
First screw the ceiling flange to the wall. It’s a good idea to screw it into a stud. I’ve learned the hard way (after my children have swung on curtains and ripped them off the wall) to always find a stud. Then put a small amount of clear caulking or the gorilla epoxy in the flange and screw in the threaded rod. Then screw on the split ring hanger and slide in the curtain rod.
The plumbing cap finial just slides in the end to finish it off and no one will ever know it’s just plastic pipe disguised as an industrial curtain rod.
For about $35 per window, I have a heavy looking and strong industrial curtain rod with three brackets and two finials. Not a bad price for a solid curtain rod!
Next week I’ll be showing you my IKEA curtain hack to get this beautiful pale aqua blue color using two shades of fabric dye.